Dear Recipients of the Camilla Wynne Missive:
How are you all holding up? Better than me, I hope! It’s been one of the busiest seasons of my life, and I’m exhausted. That said, I wouldn’t trade the past few months for anything— it was such an incredible joy and privilege to do so many Nature’s Candy events. I met so many lovely people, had wonderful conversations, spread the gospel of candied fruit, and ate a lot of delicious food. The absolute highlight for me was a day off (finally!) in New York with book co-stylist Michelle Marek. We met up with pastry friend Natasha Pickowicz at the most fabulous new bakery of all time, Elbow Bread, led by dough genius Zoe Kanan. If you are anywhere nearby, run! Get the black bread, walnut and date sandwich. Trust me, if I hate caraway and it was my favorite thing, it’s really something special. The six-course Nature’s Candy-themed dinner at Granor Farm with Tim Mazurek was the perfect finale. Very worth making a trip to that part of the world if you get a chance. I mean, check out this extremely inspirational menu:
In any case, all I have been thinking of is all of the recreational baking I’ll get to do in a few days when my holidays begin. As always I have a huge list of cookies and confections on my to-bake list, including two new recipes from the most talented Bronwen Wyatt; selections from Nicola Lamb’s spectacular biscuit bonanza (and the pineapple pate de fruits from Sift); Sophie Bamford’s stollen cookies (great use of leftover marzipan if you took my workshop this past weekend!); and a rum-spiked wreath-shaped version of my Tonka Custard Creams from KP+.
I’ve actually had a bunch of holiday recipes just go to press, including six new cookie recipes! I especially urge you to try the Caramel Apple Millionaire’s Shortbread, my most favorite of the bunch.
CHATELAINE
THE WASHINGTON POST
For the Washington Post Food’s holiday cookie package, they asked me to adapt the popular Whipped Shortbread from Jam Bake to spritz cookie form. It was a great excuse to buy a cookie press! Notably, I developed vegan and gluten-free variations. The latter took a lot of work, but it paid off! I’m going to try making these with brown butter and turning them into sandwiches with the creme fraiche ganache from Nature’s Candy.
GUARDIAN FEAST
Who doesn’t love an edible gift?! Delighted Guardian Feast asked me to contribute for the second year in a row.
I know, I know— there are SO MANY great holiday cookie recipes this year and every year, so I wanted to gift you all with a recipe for something a little different: Fruitcake Marmalade. If you’re new to marmalade, you might be interested in my online workshop in the new year, where I’ll teach you everything I know! That’s on January 17th (but you can always watch the recording later and ask questions via email. If you’re in Toronto, I’ll also be selling the fruitcake marmalade— along with all my books, confections, cookies and actual fruitcakes— at the 100% Silk Holiday Market, this Saturday, December 14th, 11am-6pm at 1558 Dupont. Come say hi!
Fruitcake Marmalade
This one’s for the fruitcake lovers out there, a group which must certainly overlap strongly with marmalade lovers. While mincemeat-adjacent, this is most decidedly marmalade, and should transport you utterly when spread onto a thick slice of lavishly buttered toast.
Don’t worry too much about precise measurements for the oranges and lemon, as long as the total weight is roughly 960 grams. And feel free to substitute your favorite dried fruit or nuts— even amarena cherries or candied pineapple! Brandy (or tea for teetotalers) is a fine substitute for rum.
Makes 5 to 6 half-pint (250 mL) jars
820 g oranges (about 4 medium)
140 g lemon (about 1 medium)
50 g currants
50 g dried cranberries
50 g golden raisins
50 g prunes, chopped
100 g dark rum, divided
960 g brown sugar
100 g lemon juice
40 g Brazil nuts, toasted and chopped
40 g pecans, toasted and chopped
1.5 tsp mixed spice
Put the oranges and lemon in a pot large enough so they can float freely, and cover amply with water. Bring to a boil, covered, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until very soft (about 1 hour). Allow to cool, covered, ideally overnight.
In a medium bowl, combine currants, dried cranberries, raisins, prunes and 80 g rum. Cover and let sit overnight.
The next day, drain the oranges and lemon. Set a sieve or food mill over a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Halve the fruit and scoop their insides into the sieve; push through the juice and flesh, discarding membranes and seeds. Chop the peel into pieces about 1/8-inch x 1-inch. Add peel to the pot with the juice and flesh, along with the brown sugar and lemon juice. Stir well to combine. Let sit at least 1 hour, preferably overnight.
Prepare sterilized jars. Wash jars and place upside down on a rimmed baking sheet. Place in a 250°F oven.
Bring the citrus mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Once boiling, add dried fruit mixture, nuts and mixed spice. Cook at a rolling boil, stirring frequently, until froth subsides and bubbles become regular and sputter violently. Test for doneness by putting a spoonful on a plate in the freezer for two minutes. Then push the marmalade gently with your finger. If it has a wrinkly skin, it’s ready.
Remove from heat and stir in remaining rum. Working quickly, fill sterilized jars to within a 1/4- to 1/8-inch of the rim. Seal tightly with lids, and invert 1 to 2 minutes.
Allow the jars to cool 24 hours, then check the seal before storing somewhere cool, dark and dry, where it will keep at least two years.
Happy New Year!
That’s it for 2024! Wishing you all a peaceful (or party-filled, as you wish) final few weeks of the year, filled with many fine things to eat and drink. Wishing above all for a more just, peaceful year in 2025, despite the odds. It can all feel so overwhelming, but even small acts of kindness or activism are helpful and empowering.
When you get a chance, please let me know what you’d like to see more of here in the future.
With love,
Camilla Wynne
I am a true lover of fruit cake and the marmalade sounds delicious. I must try it.